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June 2003 : last message before I return

I postponed my return several times under various pretexts. In fact, I didn’t really want to go back, but one has to fill in the tax form and go through nine months of mail. There is also the desire to see the friends who could not come to visit .

Marie told me I would miss the cherries and apricots and I could not give them up. There was no reason for me to come home so early. In addition to the fruit (the juicy, fragrant apricots, the amazing blackberries called “touts”), there are the fresh sweet garlic and onions whose consumption does not handicap social life. I didn’t mention the almonds that are eaten with their shell, sprinkled with lemon and seasoned with salt. But that was in April.

Another reason to stay is the sheer pleasure of spending hours reading under the iwan of the Danish cultural center, which is housed in a masterfully restored house in the old town. The iwan is the place to be in the summer and I have photographed it for you; it is a room open on one side. It’s not as hot because the sun doesn’t touch it. In the center of the courtyard, a fountain as in all the houses of the old city.

I was immersed in the study of the language, while being totally ignorant of the history of the country and of Islam in general. I began to remedy this deficiency with the books of the center’s library. 

I smoke my last arguilé on my balcony; I had totally stopped smoking when the only doctor I consulted here (it was before the exams; I was dying of fear and my blood pressure was having unpleasant surges), so when the doctor told me that water did not clean the smoke, that the tobacco contained molasses which increased its harmfulness, in short, that I’d better abstain, I complied. But smoking in the dark, in the evening heat… irresistible.

Arabic coffee and Turkish coffee

For nine months I ordered Arabic coffee without realizing that I was being given Turkish coffee. I finally have the recipe for the real Arabian coffee: a bitter coffee with a little bit of unroasted coffee sometimes mixed in and left to simmer for at least half an hour. This is the kind of coffee that is served to you in a small cup. In the street or in a restaurant, you will sometimes see a man with a large coffee pot with a curved spout offering you some. The beverage is strong.

I have already spoken about the Palestinians

To speak of a land without people for a people without land is really an aberration.

They show me the pictures of their schools, their houses, the class pictures; “we had a country. Our land was occupied by its inhabitants.

They are in a dark tunnel without a glimmer of hope.

And yet, and I didn’t know this until I came here, the Jews of the region are Arabs in the same way as Muslims and Christians. We tend to equate Muslims and Arabs; needless to say, the Turks, Iranians, and Kurds are not Arabs, although they are mostly Muslims.

Iraq

Although I don’t regret the week spent with the human shields it only served to give some courage to the Iraqis before the assault; I have no news of the family I met at the Daura refinery. I could not find the Indian medicine that the cab driver asked for his brother and the internet did not forward my messages..

Here, we think a lot about our neighbors with sadness and dismay. The danger of an American invasion of Syria seems to be over for the moment, but who knows… 

In the podcast I talk about the Kurdish marriage

Proclamation of results at the Majad

Happy to have succeeded

Our diplomas

I will write to you next time from Belgium Tot ziens et illa liqa !

:)

Syria: The Bashar Years

Newlines Podcast

Newlines PodcastJuly 16, 202107:34 EST

Syria: The Bashar Years
Syrian girls, holding pictures of Bashar al-Assad, mourn his father in downtown Damascus on June 12, 2000 / Patrick Baz / AFP via Getty Images

Everyone expected that the regime would find a way to make Bashar president after Hafez al-Assad’s death. I thought maybe they would remove the age requirement altogether. And all they did, in five minutes, in front of our very eyes, it was put down to 34, his exact age. They might as well have said, ‘The president must be 34 and his name must be Bashar al-Assad.’

Rime Allaf is a Syrian-born writer and political analyst. In a wide-ranging conversation with Newlines’ Faisal Al Yafai, she recalls living through the end of the Hafez al-Assad era and traces the Bashar years from the initial optimism of Syrians, through the end of the Lebanon occupation and the Iraq War, to the start of the Syrian revolution.

For the podcast go here

How Arabs Have Failed Their Language

The insistence on teaching Classical Arabic over modern dialects has hindered our linguistic and literary development

How Arabs Have Failed Their Language

Reading with children is, or should be, an enjoyable act of bonding and education. But, in the case of Arabic, I have often found reading in the language I inherited to be an experience of mutual misery. My son and I speak Lebanese Arabic, which he understands well enough — and better every day. But we can only find a handful of books available in that dialect — or in other accessible, useful dialects, be they Egyptian or Iraqi. Conversely, although we find many more books in Classical Arabic, my son understands very little of it. Accessible books are rare, while common books are inaccessible. Children do not seek out books written in an old Arabic, because they are full of unknown words and unfamiliar grammatical structures; parents struggle to instill a love of language and learning, or even to access these materials themselves.

Arabs have done this to themselves, doubly damning their communication in diglossia, or linguistic variety, and denying their role in this. Diglossia is a situation in which two or more varieties of a language are shoved together through social circumstances; for Arabic, there are numerous spoken dialects that exist side by side with the formal, standardized al-fuṣḥā, or fus-ha, also known as Modern Standard Arabic or Classical Arabic. Arabs have tried to elevate the only so-called true or pure Arabic, while working to discredit, disable, and even destroy dialects. They have thus made an official language out of a form that nobody considers a native tongue, while making everyone’s different native tongues seem subpar, uncouth, and useless.

This emphasis on preserving Classical Arabic — itself an acknowledgement that the language needs protection, without which it will die out — has made such reading an unlovable experience for most speakers, who struggle to properly speak the language. More importantly, the fixation with or sacred view of the old language has directly affected the dialects.

Speakers can’t pass on their dialects fully because they lack institutional support, have few available tools, and suffer from sociocultural snootiness toward the spoken tongue(s). And they can’t access Classical Arabic — which everyone glorifies but no one speaks as a native — easily enough.

As it is used today, Classical Arabic is not even a complete or living language. Most people do not use it much and only do so in formal settings (or, perhaps, for official purposes). It lacks expressive qualities needed for everyday speech. This discourages wider uptake and use, which in turn creates a scenario where Arabs cannot develop such phrases. If dialects were to disappear tomorrow, people would struggle to use Classical Arabic as an everyday language.

Dialects are limited, too. Often mutually unintelligible, dialects divide people who might otherwise be part of a realm connected culturally by the Arabic language, such as somewhat standardized Arabic in the press and certain sociocultural traditions and practices. Lacking legitimacy and acceptance, dialects are less useful — at least now — in different spheres like education, law, and administration (areas that also involve precedent, meaning that future changes are constrained by the past).

Perhaps nothing illustrates Arabs’ contradictory approach to their language than the messages they give their children. On the one hand, parents laugh at their children when they pick up Classical Arabic words (from, say, cartoons). They chide their children with comments like, “Nobody speaks like that.” But they also implore their children to learn the language they have just exposed as useless and worthy of derision. Recalling a time when her kids were fighting, one Arabic professor laughed with exasperation at the thought of one yelling at the other: “tabban lak!” — an archaic and awkward phrase meaning “damn you.”

On the other hand, people degrade dialects all the time. Children who ask why a certain phrase is used are told they are speaking a “grammarless” or even “fake” language. Even worse, that language might be branded as vulgar. Parents might call someone who uses even the simplest, easiest words of their lexicon a “farmer” or a “barbarian.” In doing so, they attach shame to the language of their daily lives. Unlike Classical Arabic, nonetheless, dialects are unregulated and so better allow users to create new words or absorb new phrases from foreign languages or the old language.

Reviewing global literacy rates against money spent on education, the language professor John Myhill concluded that the focus on Classical Arabic in formal education hurts literacy rates in Arabic-speaking countries. Across the board, even in richer Gulf Arab states, Arabic-speaking literacy rates are lower than expected given the amounts these governments spend on education. The problem is worse than the numbers suggest, although an illiteracy rate of 28% in Egypt should be alarming enough. Exam results, a widely used metric of educational success, fail to convey an accurate picture of language proficiency given reports that people pay bribes to pass literacy exams (according to an article in Al-Fanar, an academic assessment, and my interviews with non-governmental organizations working on literacy in Egypt).

Arabic speakers admit to holding negative views of Classical Arabic — and, relatedly, their own skills in it. Everyone from high school students to adults expressed a “dislike of reading in general, especially ‘longer pieces’ like books,” during a study in Egypt by Niloofar Haeri, a linguistics professor at Johns Hopkins University. Finding Classical Arabic to be “heavy” and “scary,” Haeri’s participants “simply did not enjoy the activity” of reading and found writing to be even more difficult and “intimidating.” Suggesting that the official literacy numbers are shaky at best, she notes that “the majority of people do not attain a level of literacy that allows for participation in various creative or civic communities when these require proficiency in the official language. … Even grammar teachers, copyeditors, and university-educated people speak routinely of their fear of making mistakes.”

They learn to speak one language at home and read or write another language at school.

While other researchers have made different arguments, they ultimately misdiagnose and understate the problem. Helen Abadzi, a faculty member at the University of Texas at Arlington College of Education, claimed in an article that Arabic is difficult for children because the script is complex. Echoing a complaint common among Arab scholars, she stated that reading tests in four Arab countries “have shown a widespread inability to understand written text.” Describing issues that children clearly face because they learn to speak one language at home and read or write another language at school, she concludes that the problem is the complexity of Arabic script. But the script, or the script alone, cannot be the problem. Other languages, such as Persian, use the same script as Arabic, but their users do not face the same reading and writing challenges.

Make no mistake. The problem is diglossia.

When I studied Arabic as a child, and when I restarted studying it as an adult, I didn’t know much about these issues. The more I learned, the angrier I became. Why did I, and millions of other children, have to go through a bad education system that left us frustrated and hating our own language, then go through it again while trying to relearn Arabic as adults, and then perhaps again while trying to teach our children?

If Arabs wanted to keep Classical Arabic and dialects, they could still develop an education system that took on the challenges of diglossia and even turned the presence of dialects and Classical Arabic into a strength.

Read on here

PALESTINIAN ACTORS BOYCOTT CANNES FESTIVAL AS THEIR FILM IS PRESENTED AS ISRAELI

July 10, 2021ACTUALITIES, BDS Campaign

The actors of the film ‘Let There Be Morning’, directed by Israeli Eran Kolirin, are boycotting the Cannes Film Festival, despite the fact that the film will premiere there this Saturday.

Palestinian actors boycott the Cannes Film Festival, as their film is presented as Israeli

The actors, who are Palestinian citizens of Israel, explained in a collective statement on social networks that this is a “political act of absence” to protest against the cultural erasure of Palestinians by Israel. “We cannot ignore the contradiction of the film’s entry at Cannes under the label of an “Israeli film” while Israel continues to carry out its decades-long colonial campaign of ethnic cleansing, expulsion and apartheid against us, the Palestinian people,” the casting team said in a statement. The production team further explained the prejudicial erasure that is done to Palestinians when their work is categorized as “Israeli” in the media.

“Every time the film industry assumes that we and our work fall under the ethno-national label of ‘Israeli,’ it further perpetuates an unacceptable reality that imposes on us, Palestinian artists with Israeli citizenship, an identity imposed by Zionist colonization to maintain the continued oppression of Palestinians within historic Palestine; the denial of our language, history and identity,” the actors wrote.

“[…] Waiting for us to stand idly by and accept the label of a state that has sanctioned this latest wave of violence and dispossession not only normalizes apartheid, but also continues to enable the denial and whitewashing of the violence and crimes inflicted on Palestinians.”

‘Let There Be Morning’ is a film based on a book by Palestinian journalist, screenwriter and author Sayed Kashua. It tells the story of Sami, a Palestinian citizen of Israel who returns to his hometown with his family to attend his brother’s wedding. After the wedding, Sami, his wife and son encounter Israeli soldiers who force them to stay in the village, and Sami is soon imprisoned and besieged in his hometown, not knowing why or for how long.

“The film, which is the result of our collective creative work, is about “The State of Siege,” a phrase coined by the revered Palestinian poet Mahmoud Darwich,” the release said. “The state of siege manifests itself in walls, checkpoints, physical and psychological barriers, and the subordination and violation of the Palestinians’ identity, culture, movement and basic human rights.

The film stars concluded their explanation by calling on international artistic and cultural institutions to amplify the voice of Palestinian artists and creators, as they “resist all forms of Israeli colonial oppression against the right of the Palestinian people to live, be and create. The statement was signed by actors Alex Bakri, Juna Suleiman, Ehab Elias Salameh, Salim Daw, Izabel Ramadan, Samer Bisharat, Yara Jarrar, Marwan Hamdan, Duraid Liddawi, Areen Saba, Adib Safadi and Sobhi Hosary.

Director Kolirin told Haaretz, “I understand [the reason for their action] and I support each of their decisions … It hurts me that they are not here to celebrate their amazing work, but I respect their position.”

Source: Middle East Monitor

Back from Deir Ez Zor

Februari 14 2003

Euphrates : Pont des Français

What are you going to do there, the somewhat incredulous Ami had asked me ?

It must be said that in general, Syrians do not like to be sent to this region very much. Deir is a bit like the Wild West and last night, I thought so in a cyber  crowded with kids, no one was surfing(way too expensive), but they use the computers to play. The people in charge give me their own pc to access the Internet. On my web page I intend to correct a title, when suddenly a cup flies above my head and comes crashing on the wall behind me. There ia a noise of broken dishes towards the entrance. A window is broken. A melee ensues that becomes more serious when knives come out and two boys (17 and 13 years old) try to cut the cyber managers. Their hands are slashed and when they call for help, they flood the phone with blood. I tell myself that my editing will have to wait and I hand out some Kleenex. Angry at their attackers, they scream in a language I no longer recognize. I don’t think the killers are aiming at me, but still, I’m afraid someone will die. The police arrive and the victims go to the hospital for treatment.

Abou Qamal

When I returned to the scene this morning, I didn’t see them anymore and I hope they didn’t lose their jobs because at first sight they had nothing to do with this mess. The little I understood of the situation made me think of Brussels and the Marolians’ raids at the Jambe de bois (a café near the Place Anneessens) that you are all too small to have known. At that time, the Marolians were underprivileged Belgians while the population of the Jambe was composed of students and it was regularly assaulted with a peak at the Saint V the big student feast.

Let’s go back to Deir. One reason for coming here is the Euphrates, whose name I much prefer in Arabic: el Fourati. There are also the remarkable ruins of some fortresses and especially of Dura Europos and Mari (already inhabited before the XXVth century B.C. and one of the strongholds of the Sumerians) towards the Iraqi border.

Europos

At the airport of Deir, no cab, no shuttle. With two other travelers we wait. One of them ends up going to a Rover and soon invites us to join him. An extremely kind gentleman is at the wheel and drives us to our respective destinations. Just like that. It was a good start and the rest is history.

I stay at a hotel that a friend told me was on the banks of the Euphrates. Not so, I am in fact at the edge of the canal. The river is 500 meters away towards the French bridge, a suspended footbridge.

Deir is close to Iraq not only geographically, but also by accent, music and affinity. Here, the war is felt even more painfully than elsewhere.

I have talked about them at length; some of them even make common cause with Saddam, even Ossama. Don’t rush to the conclusion that they are terrorists, but the Americans are pushing some Arabs towards these people because they need personalities who can rally them. They tease me about “old Europe” and I tell them that we have become the new Arabs.

The inhabitants speak a different Arabic than in Damascus; as for the music, I love it: harsh, it has desert accents.

HANI

I have to find transportation to visit the sites conveniently and as the hotel is very evasive, I take things in hand.When I boarded the cab of Hani, I knew at once that hewas the man of the situation. The symbiosis is total since he does everything I want which is not obvious in this country where the man often does not even listen to what the woman suggests. Except for MamnouA (verboten), nickname we gave to my sister during her visit; the driver not having lowered the radio after her repeated requests, she must have frightened him so much that we had peace during the rest of the trip. Same thing for the hotels that he suggested so insistently that it was hard to resist, except for MamnouA. It was convenient to have a sister who took the unpopular attitudes for me.

Hôtel à Deir Ez Zor

As for Hani, I spent three wonderful days with this very young man, dignified, classy, who was visibly interested in my visits himself. I even spent an evening at his home with his wife, his children and the mayor of Deir.

I even went as far as Qamishle to see the Tigris, but Ain Diwar is beyond what my back can handle and that will be for another time. Little did I know that I would soon see it in Baghdad.

Deir Ez-Zor

Used by the nomads of the Middle East, the Arabic word zor refers to the scrubby vegetation that covers the lower terraces of the desert river valleys, especially those of the Jordan and Euphrates, says Universalis.  

A look at the city

Qalat Rahba (on the road to Abou Kamal)

Doura Europos

Fourati

Mari

And above all, the people

Below is a crucial character: it is thanks to him that I am sending you these pictures. I had forgotten my camera in his car and he went looking for me to give it back.

I think the restaurant is called Sayag; the happy cooks

The famous tanour, makes the best bread ever

January 2003 My sister and her husband visit

Jablé
Tekyié Suleimani

Yamdi el waqt bi soura

Filed under: Blog — annie at 3:22 pm on Thursday, January 30, 2003 Edit This

January 2003

Translation: Time moves quickly; I’m almost halfway through my stay. I don’t realize I’m in Syria because I feel so at home. Everything is going smoothly; I feel transparent..

The weather

Springtime weather. Cat are in heat and you can hear them courting

The exams

They ended today (January 18). I did pretty well. I’ll be reunited with most of my classmates next semester.
In the meantime, I’m going to treat myself to a real vacation because the pace has been steady for four months. However, stamina quickly increased use, and I was doing just fine studying six hours every day.

The Iraq War

In my class at the Institute, we decide to stay if the Americans invade Iraq. However, if the Belgian embassy told me to pack up, I would be forced to leave.

The Dutch received a pre-warning and the Germans have recensed their nationals in Jordan.

Saddam, and for that matter Osama, have few supporters here, but that doesn’t mean the Syrians support Bush.

The New Year’s Eve

I buried 2002 in a wonderful place, the Umayyad Palace, photos below.

What makes its charm is obviously the setting, but also Samir, the boss.


After restoring a real ruin, he wanted to turn it into a museum, but he finally decided to open a restaurant. Samir is Palestinian and his wife is Syrian. Palestinians are much better treated in Syria than in Lebanon, for example, where they are excluded from many professions. Here, although not having access to nationality, they have the same rights as Syrians.

This is the only place in Damascus where you will see a real whirling dervish. On the occasion of the new year, he is accompanied by his son who also spins.

Heart of gold, Samir is extremely generous, a quality much appreciated among Arabs. During Ramadan, he invites several groups of orphans to his restaurant. At his place, the atmosphere is simple, but the oriental buffet is excellent. For this New Year’s Eve, there were only Syrians accompanied by their families, including children.

Although frequented by tourists, the place was not deserted by locals.

One evening, I met a direct descendant of Charlemagne.

In search of Arabs

Who is an Arab here? You, my Syrian friend, you are Christian, but still Arab? No, I am Syrian.
And you, my friend, you are Syrian? Yes, but I am an Arab.
The others are Turks (500,000), Kurds (1 million), Armenians, Circassians, descendants of the Crusaders, Greeks, Romans, Phoenicians, a real melting pot in short. What unites them is the language, the nationality and for the 80% of Muslims, the religion. The great Saladin was a Muslim before he was a Kurd.

Churches

They are numerous in Damascus. Here is an Orthodox church, Holy Cross, near Bab Touma.

Working in the street

Mattrass “renewer

When I was growing up in Brussels, we used to take the woolen mattresses to him to wash and re-fluff them.

Carpet sellers

Besides the specialized stores, there are merchants who set up their business in the street before the first cold. In the houses, they clear the carpets when the heat returns.

A street office

We see small tables in the street where people fill out questionnaires. They are also public writers although the literacy rate is high.

The last hakawati0

He is a professional storyteller.
He reads an episodic story that can be heard every day at 5 p.m. at the Nawfara cafe. He has his followers who come to watch the show daily.

Here is the path to the Nawfura (it skirts the mosque of Ommeyades) and a view of its terrace.

The storyteller’s name is Rasheed El Hallak /Abou Shadee, which means father of Shadee.

After a long preamble in which he pays tribute to the great men of the past, he gets to the heart of the matter.

I can distinguish a few words, but there is little hope that I will soon learn the twists and turns of his stories about Sultan Beybars among others (one of the heroes of the fight against the crusaders; he took the Krak back from them . My brother-in-law, who knows Arabic very well, hardly understands it any better than I do because the hakawati speaks in popular Syrian Arabic with a strong accent. However, he sometimes reads texts in Fou-ha. After the show, he will let me look at his antique notebooks, all handwritten, which come down from generations of predecessors.

The show is worth it: watching Abu Shadee’s exchanges with the audience, seeing him interrupt to ask for a glass of tea or to look down on the chatterboxes, watching the regulars pull on their hookahs (did I tell you that we say “drink” a hookah in Arabic?) and ESPECIALLY waiting for the moment when he swings his sword and hits the innocent stool .
Everyone shouts HEY; there follows a delicious wait as there may be a second and third blow. Arabic coffee is served in small cups that are passed from one to the other.


Abu Shadee is unfortunately the last of his dynasty.
Wouldn’t there be someone to take over the torch?
My friend, a tour guide without work because of the state of affairs, asks him if she has a chance. He encourages her to go for it. And we are in Syria, and she is a woman!

December 2002

Filed under: Blog — annie at 2:58 pm on Friday, December 20, 2002

Since I am going to travel, here is a map of the country

Eid

In Hama, I arrive in the middle of Eid El Fitr, which marks the end of Ramadan and will last three days. Everyone is in the street; they catch up with smoking the cigarettes they could not smoke during the fast. In the evening, only boys are seen in the streets; almost all of them brandish a revolver (toy); but in the afternoon, one goes out with the family.There are merry-go-rounds; a bit like at the fair back home, but on a smaller scale. They are often swings or small rustic wheels operated manually; the kids are delighted. There is a refreshing joy. Here I am transported fifty years back in time; this sort of fun has not yet been spoiled by the consumer society. People are not blasé.

I get side tracked by a young entrepreneur selling foul (beans) cooked in water and seasoned with salt and spices. Delicious.

Kids love to be photographed and ask me lots of questions.

Back from Hama

So I had four days of vacations and I took the opportunity to go to Hama.

Noria

The journey first: by bus, with a lady who had a cold and slept the whole way.

I am just recovering from a cold . At the pharmacy, they give you antibiotics without a prescription and just what you need to get you out of trouble. Not the huge box that will age in your bathroom until the expiration date; the solution here is economical and anti-waste.

For the return trip, I will have as a companion an independent woman living alone (and single); she is a doctor and studied in England. I learn that the life expectancy is 70 years; indeed I did not see many old people in the streets.

We stop in Homs where I chat with some locals and they ask me the usual questions: are you married (now I say yes, it’s better, otherwise you get proposed to), do you have children? yes; where is your husband? at work. Where does he work? Damn! I say the only word that comes to mind: safar (the embassy); they immediately take out their passport and ask me for a visa for Belgium. What is this mania of wanting to immigrate? I tell them about the rainy Belgium, the fact that there is no work, that they have a family here; nothing to do. Dreams are tenacious. You only know your happiness by comparison.

My chauffeur

At the hotel, I get a driver. When he comes to take delivery of his customer, he gives multiple kisses to the hotelier on the cheek and I deduce that they are relatives. Indeed.

He drives his purring Mercedes, which is 35 years old. He offers me small pizzas that women sell in front of their houses and in the afternoon, a delicious syrupy coffee also served at the side of the road, this time by a kid

The region is marvelous

Houses in the shape of beehives still inhabited..

Byzantine Qasr Ibn Wardan .

Apamea, where I had the ruins all to myself early in the morning,

Maara, a small town hosting a magnificent mosaic museum (and I who did not like mosaics, I am enthusiastic). Photos of the interior are forbidden. It’s market day. Cobblers are installed on the sidewalk. I guess they move from one market to another. In this little town, I am not very proud of our crusaders who, having conquered the town under the orders of Raymond of Toulouse in 1092, boiled people in pots to eat them and roasted children that they had impaled on a spit. It must be said that the besieged had no more food.

And finally, the highlight of my stay: the dead city of Serjilla where I walk alone in these immense ruins. One day, the inhabitants left, we don’t know why; a bit like the Anasazi in the American West. There is no trace of war. It is believed that trade routes had moved, depriving these villages of resources, or that the inhabitants fled after an earthquake. There are dozens of dead towns in the region, but Serjilla was the most impressive of the four I visited.

The others are smaller and close to villages, hence: garbage, nasty dogs, children who ask for pens (the day I hold the granny who from Morocco to Syria has distributed pens, I’ll send her back to the anthropophagous crusaders). In short, no splendid isolation. The pyramid is in Bara..

In several places, people have reclaimed a ruin to make their home and the laundry cooks on a wood fire next to the columns in front of which you see these three little girls.

Now some beautiful views of Hama, but first, my favorite sin: these white arms stuffed with cream. In Damascus I thought it was a Palestinian pastry, but I was wrong, it is the great specialty of Hama. Semolina is cooked with cheese and the dough is spread on tripods.

To the one who offers to come and make this wonder in Belgium, I get a visa right away; and so much for the Belgian rain and the family he will leave behind. ( Recipe at the bottom of this text)

Hama, views of the old city; norias only work in summer. So I didn’t hear their complaint that can be heard from far away.

Back to the workbench and language learning

As far as tenses are concerned, Arabic is less complicated than our languages because it has only three tenses: the accomplished, the inaccomplished (the present and the future) and the imperative. Its undeniable advantage is that it is pronounced exactly as it is written.

I’m starting to feel a little ridiculous around town when I speak my ‘fous-ha’ ; kind of like speaking Latin in Rome. Fortunately, most people understand me, but they laugh. This means that in four years time, when I am done with Fou-ha, I’ll have to start learning Amyia (the popular language). However, it is the fous-ha that is used on television and in the newspapers.

Our class is tight knitted; we love our teacher who is very devoted. We are the ones who have to remind him that the bell for recess has rung (Ya oustad, el djarass we whisper ). The atmosphere is very good. We laugh a lot. My results? Good. (I am in red at the back of the class).

Situation in the region

What is the matter with all of you that you are afraid to come here? This must be one of the quietest countries in the world.

We live in a bubble; we feel very safe. Syria is safe. Of course, what is happening in Palestine, and what is going to happen in Iraq, does not leave us, to say the least, indifferent, but we hardly talk about it.

December 25th

I just spent an unforgettable Christmas with a Christian family . I often have this feeling of living totally in the present. We had a great time and no one mentioned Iraq; why bother? We are totally powerless to prevent anything.

Daddy dressed up as Santa Claus and came in with a bag and rang a bell. We did a farandole while singing: berim berim, arendous arendous (nobody knows what that means).

The midnight mass is certainly the most fervent mass I have attended since my childhood. It was  in Arabic and the church was packed. “Although I am no longer a Catholic”, but at Christmas I wanted to get back to my roots and if I had problems with Rome, I have few issues with Jesus .

The two Damascus

For Christmas, I was in the Christian neighborhood. There are really two cities in Damascus, but they are not segregated. On Fridays, when almost everything closes in the Muslim neighborhoods, we go to Bab Touma where everything is open. And on Sundays, the reverse is true. At Christmas, the Christian quarter attracts Muslim visitors because of the illuminated houses. As for the relations between the two communities, they seem to be good; just like in our country, some people probably need to despise the other.

The Hama Cheese Pudding
(Halawih bil jibin, by Karim El-Boustani)
~~~~~~~~
Ingredients:
1 pound shredded, unsalted, and fresh Mozzarella cheese
2 cups of water
1 cup of sugar
1 cup of wheat semolina flour
1/2 cup unsalted Ricotta cheese (optional)
1 teaspoon orange blossom extract/water (ma zaher)

Procedure:
Start by boiling the water and adding the sugar.
Once it starts boiling add the semolina slowly and mix.
When finished, continue by adding the shredded Mozzarella cheese slowly and
keep stiring until all the cheese has been added and melted completely.
Then spread the entire mix on a dish and let it cool down for a few hours.
Best eaten cold with some Ricotta cheese spread on top flavored with
a touch of orange blossom water.

 

:)

From radio Rozana

On the Day of Elections… the Alawites Ask Al-Assad, Who You Will Use Now to Continue the Path!

A funeral for members of the regime’s armyA funeral for members of the regime’s army


Reports | 27 May 2021 | Ahmed Khaddour – Latakia

Some Syrians view the Alawites as fierce defenders of Al-Assad. However, many are not aware of the ongoing disputes between Alawite clans that led several of them to antagonize the Syrian president and avoid supporting him, even in undeclared ways.

 A split within the sect!

The Alawite sect is divided into two groups, namely the Haidari (or Al-Mawakshah) sect, which is based north of Latakia countryside, and Kalazi sect, the sect to which head of the Syrian regime Bashar Al-Assad belongs, and it is also split into several clans. 

Masoud, a Syrian citizen in his fifties who belongs to the Haidari sect, smuggled his three sons out of Syria for fear that they would be forced to serve in the military. He says: “I do not have to lose my sons in a war that does not concern me. We have always considered the regime and the rest of the Alawites as outsiders in the sect.” [1]

Feelings of hostility towards the ruling regime were not limited to members of the Haidari sect only, as many Alawites of the Kalazi sect also opposed the regime of Al-Assad the father and then the son. However, ideological differences that accumulated since the time of the French occupation have led to a deep rift between the two religious groups, who rarely engage in mutual social ties (like marriages) or share interests.

In the same context, Masoud indicated that “this war is Al-Assad’s war alone. He is the one who started it and who pushed the Alawites into it, and as long as the majority of the Kalazi sect insist on supporting the president, I will not participate in the upcoming elections and many of the Haidari Alawites will do the same.”

Repudiating Al-Assad’s support is not limited to the Haidari sect. Thus, there are many clans among the Kalazi sect who refuse to support the president in the upcoming elections, even though they had to cheer for him publicly reluctantly and without an actual desire to do so, such as the clan of Ali Douba. This clan includes a large number of Alawites, who hold important leadership positions in the state, and many sheikhs of the sect.

The reason behind this grudge against Al-Assad and his political system is the fact that the president had ordered the removal of former leaders, including Douba and others who belong to the same clan.

Fida is a 40-year-old man who took advantage of his closeness to Douba and moved between several insignificant state positions. He sees that the deterioration of the Syrian regime’s status was caused by removing men like Douba and his fellows; and despite the fact that Fida does not know whether he will vote for Al-Assad or not, the situation that is clear so far, because this state of indecisiveness will not led in any way to confronting Al-Assad and standing up against him.

“We start drinking by insulting him and finish drinking by insulting him,” said Luay, a young man from Demsarkho district who joined one of the Shabiha groups in the past. 

Luay stated that “after ten years of war and losses, and the indifference of the government and the regime about the sacrifices we have made”, Al-Assad does not deserve to be supported again in the next elections, and “insulting him day and night is the least we can do to appease our anger.” 

It is worth noting that the regions of Demsarkho and Al-Da`tour suffer periodically from the deterioration of basic services, and amid the state’s carelessness the locals find themselves forced to take the matter into their hands through harassment, robbing travellers on the roads, intimidation, etc.

“It is your turn doctor”

Ten years later, it did not occur to the Syrian regime to find slogans like “It is your turn doctor” painted on the walls of several villages in the Jableh countryside, in addition to other anti-regime expressions that the authorities started hear or see since beginning of the year, which made them worry over the possibility of losing the regime’s popular incubator, especially in the run-up to the presidential elections.

Majid, a young man from Jableh, who does not identify with any political trend, wants the current crisis to end, so that the situation can ameliorate if Al-Assad leaves office. Majid noted that the appearance of slogans from time to time insulting or inciting against Al-Assad in the villages of Jableh is nothing but an indication of the dreadful condition of the area and people’s desire for change and to be able to choose a new option other than Al-Assad.

Majid and other young men are no longer happy with this situation or with Al-Assad’s reign over the Syrian state, which terrifies the regime, given the high probability that those people will either participate in the elections nor vote for the president.

“They give us a grant of 50,000 pounds a month every while,” said Abu Ali, a 60-year-old pensioner who depends on his pension to live. 

Abu Ali stated: “Giving us monthly grants is both provocative and shameful. This will not guarantee the people’s loyalty to Al-Assad.” In his opinion, if the regime authorities want to bribe the people, they should feed them properly or give them a decent amount of money, not this grant which is not enough to cover the living expenses of half a week!” [2]

Abu Ali did not hide his desire to boycott the elections, but he is afraid to express that overtly. At the same time, he confirmed that many of his friends and peers are showing support to the regime because “they are terrified to express any kind of hostility towards the elections! Everyone is afraid of everyone.”

The Syrian pound is continuously collapsing, and the prices of fuel are constantly rising at a time when the regime’s government is gradually removing fuel subsidies, while the Syrians suffer from rocketing prices and transportation crises. However, the regime tried hard to control the depreciation of national currency against the dollar, and recently restored part of the fuel subsidy. 

Rami, a young man in his thirties, have always expressed his appreciation of the Syrian state and the president, especially after the measures taken by the authorities to control the exchange rate and the fuel prices. 

On the other hand, Rami believed in a conspiracy being plotted against the current regime and the tremendous efforts that Al-Assad is making to protect his people and country from the conspirators. 

Unlike Rami, Raba, who is a university student, underestimated the aforementioned mode of thinking which is centred on the belief in an ongoing conspiracy against the state adopted by many syrians. Raba, being a student in economics, knows how countries manage economic crises, and how economic empasses are created and solved. She explained that “there are many economic solutions through which the state can ease the citizens’ burden. However, the regime wants to persistently humiliate and demean them. A state like this does not deserve our participation in its elections.”

“Menhebak”, “Sawa”, “Amal bil Amal”(Mkamlin Ma’ak)! 

Since Bashar Al-Assad assumed power he launched three election campaigns, the last of which was “Sawa” (together) campaign. The word “sawa” has become a source of provocation to the masses in Syrian, after the regime used it to label the 2014 election campaign, but worked at the same time on excluding many Syrians from the scene and marginalized every opposition voice that stood against Al-Assad. 

The regime loyalists launched the slogan “Mkamlin Ma’ak” (with you until the end) for the election campaign, before the authorities chose to label the new campaign “Amal bil Amal,” (hope flourishes with work).  

Duraid, a forty-year-old man who lived through the era of Al-Assad the father and the son, and like many other Syrians, he voted in past due to the nature of his work and the security restrictions that were previously imposed on everyone, insists now on boycotting “the unreasonable and unacceptable elections after all the destruction that the country witnessed,” as he put it. 

“Who will they use now to continue the path?! Or it seems that they mean to kill the rest of us, because whoever supports him does not mind dying for the sake of his shoes, as for those who refuse, they will finish them.” [3]

Banners and posters for the presidential race scheduled to take place on 26 May are everywhere in Lattakia, Jableh, and all the Syrian regions, inviting citizens to participate in the presidential elections, with a sense of detachment from reality, as if their participation in the elections will restore the past glory of Syria or repair the ruins and cultivate the burned lands.

A Syriatel employee told Rozana that the company gave its employees flags to participate in the marches that will take place on election day with a hint of the necessity to vote for Al-Assad, and of course the security forces have started by now to monitor state employees with the aim of exploring their intention regarding the elections and their willingness to participate in the elections and support the head of the regime.

As for Ali, a member of the Alawite sect who works in one of the Latakia state hospitals, explained to Rozana that the hospital management informed the staff verbally that leaves will be prohibited during the election period. 

Hospital directors also forced resident doctors and on-duty nurses to participate in a rally to support Al-Assad on Wednesday evening, 19 May, and gave them an excuse of absence. Thus, no one was able to evade it.

According to Ali, “if the regime forces the Alawites to support and vote in its favour, then it is not unlikely to force the rest of the Syrians to do the same.” 

source

Damascus november 2002

Filed under: Blog – annie at 2:38 pm on Saturday, November 30, 2002

The hammam is still Capua. The room is reminiscent of an orientalist painting.

My neighbor says that he goes there with friends around 10 o’clock in the evening and that they spend the night eating, drinking tea and telling jokes. They leave at about 4 o’clock in the morning.

To switch to smoking, I have a real crusade with my friends and acquaintances who smoke like chimneys. We don’t see many old people, but I don’t know the figures on life expectancy.

And to immediately prove the saying « do as I say, do not do as I do » I acquired a beautiful hookah which I send you the picture.

The hookah

Arguilé

There is first the pot in which there is water that we change at each pipe. On the pot, we put the column; we plug the stove containing the tobacco. A long pipe lined with pompoms starts from the column and ends with a spout (mine is shaped like a cobra’s head). A sheet of aluminum foil is placed on the stove and holes are drilled in it. Charcoal is heated until we get embers that we put on the aluminum sheet.

Let’s talk about Ramadan

On Tuesday, we watched for the hilal (new moon) all evening, but it remained hidden by clouds. So Ramadan will start one day later.

On Wednesday, around 3 am, a man walks through the streets of the neighborhood banging twice on a box to wake everyone up.

I’m going to try to fast for the whole of Ramadan and it’s not hard after two days. Just eat breakfast at 4am and dinner at 4:45pm. I want to know what this fasting is like physically; Muslims also go to the mosque.

My hopes of seeing the Friend stop smoking, thanks to Ramadan, have come true. It is during the day that he will stop smoking, but he can start again in the evening. I quit hookah.

A friend of mine tells me that fasting is also an opportunity to know what it is like to be hungry, to be aware of what the poor are going through.

I think of the American senator who lived for a few weeks on the budget of a family on public assistance (welfare).

Frankly, from here, Islam is not scary. Christians live their religion in peace; they have their churches. The Jews had their synagogues.

The Taliban and other fundamentalists are to Islam what Torquemada was to Christianity.

Solitude

Anywhere it takes time to make your mark, but in Brussels everything had to be redone, or almost, and I hardly feel more alone here than there.

I met a Catholic family and I plan to go to mass with them one Sunday.

I also met my Lebanese neighbors. They invite me to have tea; there is a young man and a young girl. I naively ask them if they live together. That no! They are engaged, but he shares his apartment with a boyfriend and she lives with a girlfriend.

My ophthalmologist

According to my Lebanese neighbor, who is a doctor, his consultation is not typical of those here. This is probably why he is not on the list of doctors recommended by the embassies. But he did make me feel better. With my new eyes, I can study a lot longer; fortunately, because at school it’s hard.

Security

Being able to go out with a nice bag, which I used to carry in Brussels only in my room for visits, is a new luxury. Hiding my money in my panties is no longer necessary here.

I had become accustomed to insecurity (I had « done » Washington D.C. for 17 years); back home in Brussels, I took the metro at night without undue fear. However, I was thrown to the ground when my bag was snatched and two weeks later I was doing it again, but standing up (my bag was snatched as I clutched it under my armpit).

Belgica qwayès

What a pleasure to say that we are Belgian! Everyone knows Belgium and our position in favor of the Palestinians. Qwayès means « well ». The noise of boots coming from Washington and the Sharonesque impasse in the South plunge me into a certain sadness despite my happiness to live here. It is the entire Arab and Muslim world that is threatened.

Ramadan (continued)

When one undertakes a feat like siam (the fasting of Ramadan), one waits at least until one is halfway through to trumpet it. By the way, if I had achieved this feat, I would have shared it with the 935 million Muslims in the world, which takes some of the shine off this achievement. You can tell by my tone that I have no reason to be very proud of myself.

The first and second day, no problem; the third day, ouch, it hurts. There is not only hunger, headache; there is also tiredness because when you get up at four o’clock in the morning to swallow a sandwich, you can’t always fall asleep again. And no question of making a nap; there is an energetic worker, recruited by the new owners of the floor above to renovate their dwelling, which undertook to pull down almost all the walls. I can hear the debris from upstairs falling into my bathroom’s false ceiling; I wait until it’s finished before asking to have it cleared away.

So I make a compromise with my wounded ambition and I don’t eat all day, but I drink a kawha at 7am and a tea at 12:30pm. This allows me to attack with a good appetite, in the company of real fasters, the foutour (meal of the break of fasting called iftar). We wait for the muezzin to arrive at « Allah hou Akbar » to start, who the cigarette, who the soup with which we open the meal.


The first day, I share in my new small restaurant – my local restaurant is in renovation – a table with a couple and a young man; the gentleman of the couple tells me what I must order: lemon for the soup (and do not eat your bread at the same time, it is not good for the stomach). What do you mean, you order all this? You have quite an appetite! I had ordered meat, rice and vegetables, but he was right. It would have been too much.

It’s also on « Allah hou Akbar » that you swallow your last bite in the morning around 4 o’clock when you wake up in time. No need for an alarm clock, a rustling sound, made of all these people getting up, flies over the city; one must add the prayer that filters through the walls of the nearby mosque.

I still hope to manage to do without the midday tea, but it’s really hard.

And it is certainly not to know what hunger is that I am fasting, because in this area I have given amply and long in my youth. Nor is it to lose weight, because without a scale and with loose clothes, I have no problem with my weight. (update 2021: I was fat see photo below).

Ramadan is the time when we give more to the poor and to good works. There must be some poor people, but not in my relatively rich neighborhood. However, on Friday, I came across two very poorly dressed kids, one of whom had a black eye, and whose presence was quite incongruous. I could have given them something spontaneously, but how can you give to someone who doesn’t ask for anything?


Atmosphere

If after the iftar the city is deserted, taking a cab around 2pm is a real challenge. All means of transport are taken by storm by people who are released earlier. We get packed and I am ready to pay the scalpel price in order to get back in time for my teacher with whom I work almost every day.

Today I’m going home with a driver who’s all happy because tonight he’s leaving for the pilgrimage to Mecca. By plane? No, by Pulman. The bus will take 24 hours and he will stay two weeks.

At school, they let us go 20 minutes earlier.

The weather

Delicious. My laundry dries slower; now it takes two hours.

Iraq?

Whatever Sadam does, it will be war. The only solution I see is for him to resign to save his people. One can dream. And would he save them from an American occupation?

Pictures

Come on, I know The Jeck; he needs some, otherwise he doesn’t even click. I have to wait for my release day, Friday. You’ll soon have mountains of sweets. The most spectacular stores are in Merdjé. On the street these days, they sell a kind of cotton candy, spun sugar and flavored snail-shaped and huge chips with caramel on them and other sweets of the occasion.

Merdjé Square


Noise

Upstairs, the worker is working overtime. I’m going to review tomorrow’s lesson with hopeless words to memorize (like aïadatoun for doctor’s office); I surprised myself today by asking for needles with a word I had learned last year at the very beginning of my apprenticeship and what’s more, I was understood.

I put poetry on the back burner because when you don’t know the words for more, less, up, down, etc., you have to be modest.

In class, thanks to Arabic, we are beginning to overcome the language barrier with the Turks.

Tuesday 26 November 2002

I don’t know when I last posted, but Ramadan is long gone for me. I sincerely admire all those around me who endure it stoically, even joyfully, without the grandstanding of the undersigned. I haven’t heard a single complaint; when asked, people say, no, it’s not hard.

In fact, one friend eats something before going to sleep and gets up at the usual time. That still gives him a 17-hour fast every day, but with a normal night.

The other day, I find a man on my doorstep kneeling and calling out to heaven. I give him a generous alms, but he wants more. I pretend to take it back and he is satisfied.

On the way down, I meet a neighbor who asks me if I have seen a beggar and I tell him that it was a meskîne, a faquir (an unfortunate, a poor). He answered indignantly that he had rung his son’s doorbell and asked him for a glass of water, and this in the middle of his fast! The glass of water seems to shock him more than the begging. He wants to call the police.

And here is another one who paterfamilias me by telling me never to open my door to anyone, that as I live alone, I must be particularly careful. All these paternal men are younger than me!

I’m back from a weekend in Palmyra. What a wonder! I talked a student from the institute into coming with me because we had to play hooky since our weekend is interspersed with a school day. I really needed this, because my life, very austere, between home and the institute, is only enhanced by an occasional visit to the Friend with whom I can talk about everything. There is also the family that I visit from time to time, but with whom exchanges are limited by the language problem.

In short, I needed a change of scenery. I was close to returning to Belgium.

Palmyra (Tadmor in Arabic) surrounded by the desert, an oasis three hours from Damascus, is a wonder. I didn’t know my girlfriend at all. She too was a discovery. We got along right away. On the first day, we visited the site; on the second, after a climb to the citadel to watch the sunrise, we lazed on the terrace of the Zenobia Hotel, in front of the columns, flowers that have emerged from the sand and have the same color as the sand. It was the first time I spoke since my arrival. It was about time. It is true that you my readers keep me company and that, thanks to you, I do not feel too lonely.

It’s the height of the date season. We were offered dates everywhere. Invitations to drink tea followed one another all day long. We tasted the mensaf, a Bedouin dish made of rice with vegetables, meat and almonds, which is not at all like paella.

Dates

A date merchant invites us to his place for tea; we say yes, but we don’t intend to go. He comes to pick us up in the restaurant where we are finishing our meal and tells us that he has a car. Imprudently, we get in the car and we leave for the palm groves. Soon, the car drops us in front of a huge door, but what worries me very quickly is that the driver follows us to the hut which looked like a bachelor pad: soft carpets on the ground, low couches, candles and a wood fire.

Our two companions tell us that they are single. Another bad omen is that our host has locked not only the heavy garden door, but also the cabin door, putting the key high on a ledge.

I tell my girlfriend in Dutch that we are in trouble. I’m ready for battle battle but she makes a flawless maneuver and asks our host to go out to the non-existent toilet. She comes back after five minutes and leaning on the doorframe she says in a dying voice that she feels very bad, that it’s probably something we ate and could our host drive us back to the hotel?

Annie in Tadmor (Palmyra)

The two accomplices’ plan failed. They mumbled in Arabic, too bad it didn’t work out, but they drove us home without a fuss.

It must be said that some foreign women are seeking that kind of adventure

Queen Zenobia, inseparable from Palmyra

]
« After the assassination of her husband, in which she is believed to have been involved, Zenobia exercised power as regent on behalf of her young son. Within three years, she had extended her sovereignty over the whole of Syria, Egypt and most of Asia Minor, thanks to a declared alliance with Rome. In 271, however, Zenobia’s ambitions in the east forced the emperor Aurelian to take up arms against her. After seizing almost all her possessions, Aurelian laid siege to Palmyra. It fell, and Zenobia was taken captive to Rome. She was later given an estate in Tibur (today Tivoli, in Italy) where she retired for the rest of her life. A woman of great beauty and brilliance, Zenobia is remembered for her relentless ambition. « (Piqué at Encarta)

Next week is the end of Ramadan and we have four days of freedom, followed immediately by shibi exams. I’ll go to discover Hama, north of Homs, with its huge norias and in the surroundings, houses shaped like beehives.

Some more pictures of Palmyra

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